Tricouni Peak

Tricouni Peak - 2122M

252M Prominence

50.01380, -123.24454

May 21, 2026

1150M Ascent and descent

9H 40M C2C, 9H 15M moving

14.3 KM (Approx)

Tricouni Peak has drawn my attention ever since I hiked up to berg lake 3 or 4 years ago. A few years after doing that hike I found out about the North Ridge and I knew If I did Tricouni it would have to be that route. Tyler was also keen on the North Ridge as it looked like a classic, so with the 4 days we had while we were both in Squamish we took our chance at it. We weren't quite sure if it would be in yet, as it is still spring and the route is North facing, but it was definitely worth a go. We camped out at Check campground and left at 4 AM the following morning to try and get a reasonably early start. We drove up the Chance creek FSR, which was in good condition minus the final 200M of gain, which probably pushed Tyler's stock Nissan pickup to it's limit. By the time we were at 1050M at the end of the driveable FSR there was enough daylight to start the hike in without headlamps. The road kept going for a little while though, and at around 1350M, just before turning off onto the trail there began to be some snow on the ground. The trail is not very easy to follow in snow conditions as it is completely unmarked, but we did manage to find a set of footprints all the way to Berg lake, so we loosely just followed them. Unsure if the lake was really frozen or not, we decided to sidehill around the East side of the lake. We noticed grizzly bear prints by the lake and a hole where the bear had likely fallen in. From Berg lake it was a bit of a plod up to the East col of Tricouni peak. The snow was not too soft thankfully as we didn't have snowshoes on the day. This section was not very steep and trekking poles did the job. Once at the Eastern Col above the small glacier we took a break and geared up. We traversed along the upper edge of the small glacier, which was still snow covered, and navigated our way to the beginning of the technical part of the ascent. At this point there is a bit of a headwall where the scrambling really starts, we decided to solo this part, and likely did not take the easiest line. We decided to not take the easiest line mainly because we did not want to descend any further than necessary and I found a good spot to cross "the moat" which was completely chill at this time of year. After some stiff scrambling, which was really just as tricky as anything else we climbed all day, we were met with some steep snow. This section was definitely the most demanding and scary of the day, as the snow was at least 45 degrees and extremely exposed over the slabs we just climbed. The snow was already starting to get very soft though, so thankfully no front pointing was necessary. The snow climbing gradually traversed over to the climbers right and to the base of the North Ridge, where we were finally met with dry rock. At this point we continued to scramble a bit further until the exposure increased at a slightly more stiff move and we decided to rope up. Tyler led the first pitch, then after less than a rope's length he belayed me up. From here to the summit we simul climbed the entire ridge. Simul climbing the ridge was a wise decision as it was far longer than I think either of us had anticipated. Most of it was pretty chill scrambling with some significant exposure. Near the top of the false summit there was a bit of snow still on the ridge, so I opted to take out my ice axe for a few steps. Once I got to the false summit I had run out of gear and it made sense to belay Tyler to where I was situated in order to retrieve gear for the final downclimb off of the false summit, and up the most aesthetic and final part of the ridge. The downclimb was more chill than it appeared at first, and the final part of the climb was also easier than it appeared and very easy to protect. The rock was an absolute joy to climb and very fun. As soon as the true summit was in sight and the terrain mellowed out I set up an anchor and belayed him up. We then un roped and put away our gear and walked over to the summit, where we had a quick break and bite to eat. We were just over 6 hours car to summit, and since it was almost noon at that point we decided to begin the downclimb in case the snow got a little sketchy in the afternoon. We started by downclimbing the alleged 4th class scramble off of the summit, which felt like very easy third class. This then brought us back onto the snow, where we found a mildly steep gulley that some skiers had descended recently. We then traversed closer to the South West ridge of the peak, before making the descent off the ridge and back down to berg lake. The descent off the ridge was a little steep in parts and some wet loose sluff was sliding, so we split apart in case something bigger or a cornice came down. Thankfully we made it back down to the lake in good time, and all went well. side hilling around the lake became exhausting as the snow got quite mushy by early afternoon. After the lake we took one more break and then completed the hike out back down the Berg lake summer trail and back down the washed out FSR. One of my best climbs yet.

Alpen glow on Cloudburst and the Tantalus range (back)

First peak at Tricouni Peak as we near Berg Lake

A first view of Berg lake, col we climbed to middle right

A good look at Tricouni summit as we near the col

Looking back at Berg lake and Cloudburst Mountain

First view over the col looking at Cypress Peak (left) and the gnarly towers of Mount Fee in the 
background

Traversing over to the start of the slabs we scrambled up. Photo Tyler 
Zakkour

Tyler working up the exposed slabs

The steep and exposed snow climb 

Reaching the top of the snow climb, with some traversing left to do

Bit of scrambling to traverse over to the bottom of the North Ridge

Looking back at the snow traverse

First few roped up moves

Looking down the ridge

Me seconding up the start of the ridge. Photo Tyler Zakkour

Looking ahead at a snowy part of the ridge

Tyler on the sub summit from the col before climbing up to the true summit

Me starting up the final climb after the notch

Top belay station

Me on the summit. Photo Tyler Zakkour

Summit views to the South

Summit views to the North

Tyler on the summit

Garibaldi and Atwell peak

Looking back at Tricouni peak, we descended via the left snow ramp which is split in two at 
the top

Tricouni Peak route, full route in blue, my recording in red