Kings Peak

Kings Peak - 2061M

325M Prominence

49.81147, -125.83635

August 12, 2026

1765M Ascent and descent

9H 33M C2C, 9H Moving

16.5KM

Despite Kings Peak not being the most prominent Vancouver Island peak, it is definitely one of the most popular ones. There are two more standard routes, The Main Gulley, which is more commonly done in snowy conditions, and the Hiker's route in the summer time. I have wanted to do Kings Peak for years now, but always thought it would be cool to do an alternate route to the norm, and do one of the many climbs that have been done on the peak. Over the winter I did a trip with an Island local to Mount Myra, and we talked about doing more trips in the future, so I recruited Rich Priebe to join me again for this mission. We decided on Pauper's Buttress on the Queen's face, as it seemed like a decent moderate route and an interesting way up to the summit. Rich picked me up in Comox at 6 AM and just after 7:30 we were at the trailhead and had began the approach up the standard trail. The trail is fantastic and we cruised up in good time. Nothing technical on the trail, but hikers should beware of a few slabby sections of rock and some steep eroded root sections. The trail got a bit more delicate to follow by the time we got up into the section that follows the creek, but if you keep a close eye on the creek traverses there should be no issue. This is the most challenging part of the Hiker's Route as it is difficult to gain footing on the steep compacted gravel slopes. Soon after the campground area the trail takes you into a bowl with a final little creek. We veered off the trail at this point to try to get to the base of the buttress. We hiked briefly up the creek and at this point we noticed a bushy slabby bump that would take us up to flatter ground and near us to the base of the Queen's face, so we scrambled up, following the path of least resistance. From the top of this bump it was mellower slabs where the north glacier clearly sat only a number of years ago. We hiked up to the base of the climb on the slabs, managing to stay entirely off the snow. After figuring out which line to take for the start of the climb, we went in behind the snow patch to find a perfect belay ledge. The line we chose, and likely the correct route based on what I had read about the route, started below the roof before traversing left up into the crack system. Pulling the roof was a bit of a nightmare, as I got all contorted, and my hiking poles kept catching onto the rope and making me unable to look up. After I crawled my way out of the roof the climbing continued up a fun crack that took great gear. Unfortunately the experience of the rest of the pitch was also dampened a bit by the fact that the rope was following a poor line, and it felt like I was pulling up a dead horse with me. I continued on to where the two crack systems converged and become a grassy corner with a little shrub and set up a belay station. Rich followed up, then led the second pitch. The second pitch started with the grassy corner featuring a few chockstones. Rich then traversed left a bit, up some cleaner climbing to set up a belay station where the terrain started to ease off. From this point we put the climbing gear away and scrambled up a mix of rock and slippery heather for a good distance. The start was quite exposed but soon it was just class 3 scrambling. The scrambling ended when we made it up to a large ledgy area with one final headwall to top out Queen's face. I geared back up again and began the lead. The climbing was fun yet again, on quite surprisingly solid rock. The crux of this straight forward pitch came at the top when a few dihedral moves were needed to top out. I set up a belay station right on the edge of the face and Rich followed up. From here we took a little break then switched into hiking mode to top out Queen's Ridge, then descend 40 or so meters, before making the final push up to the summit of King's Peak. The hiking was all very chill and the route to follow was pretty obvious. We were rewarded with the unreal views of Elkhorn, Colonel Foster and many other summits that make this peak so popular. On the summit I checked my phone to see what time it was, and noticed that the last ferry back home might still be a possibility if we made good time on the descent, so we got a move on and commenced the hike back down the hiker's route. The hiker's route is mainly class 2 but there were probably a few class 3 moves here and there. The hike down Queen's Ridge was pleasant, and soon we turned into the access gulley. This is probably the steepest part of the Hiker's Trail and would be a little challenging if it were still snowy. We completed the rest of the hike back down in good time with only one stop at the waterfalls to fill up on water, and I managed to make the last sailing back to Powell River the same night.

The creek we followed as we entered the sub alpine

This is the Main Gulley

We opted to climb up these bushy slabs in center shot

A first look at Pauper's Buttress

Pitch one. We followed the right side crack starting under the roof

Rich setting up belay on the ledge

Me leading pitch 1. Photo Rich Priebe

Rich nearing the top of pitch 1

Rich leading the bushy corner on pitch 2

Scrambling class 3/4 terrain between pitches

Kings peak left, More of Queen's face to the right

Me leading final pitch. Photo Rich Priebe

Looking down part way up the final pitch

Rich following up the final few moves, mind the toes

On top of Queen's face, Kings peak ahead, and Elkhorn peeking out

Kings Peak summit

Elkhorn, Rambler and Colonel Foster (L>R)

Gnarliest of the Island, Colonel Foster

Victoria Peak and the Warden are obvious

My mom was up here a few weeks ago... Hi mom!

Looking East at Mount Filberg, Mount Cobb and Mount Haig Brown

This is Pauper's Buttress

Taking the Hiker's Route down Queen's Ridge

The gulley to descend on the Hiker's Route

Amazing waterfalls on the trail 

Kings Peak Route